• Bright, indirect light: Bright, indirect light means your plant receives plenty of natural light without harsh, direct sunlight hitting its leaves for extended periods. Think of a spot near a bright window, slightly off to the side, or behind a sheer curtain. This is a great starting point for many popular houseplants!

    Low light: Low light doesn't mean no light. It refers to spaces that receive less natural light, such as rooms farther from windows or areas with limited sunlight.

    • Some plants tolerate low-light conditions, but most houseplants still need light to photosynthesize and grow. A plant that tolerates low light may survive in those conditions without necessarily growing quickly or producing its best foliage.

    If your space is particularly dim, a grow light can be a wonderful option. I love the brand Barrina!

    Signs your plant is getting too much/too little light: Plants are very good at communication. You have to understand their language.

    Too little light signs:

    • Slow, limited growth

    • Long, stretched out stems (leggy)

    • Small new growth

    • Loss of variegation (reverting)

    Too much light signs:

    • Bleached or faded leaves

    • Brown, crispy patches or edges

    • Scorches or sunburn-like damage

  • Watering schedules:

    • Maybe I’m a little bit naughty, but schedules, to ME, are overrated. I typically water all of my plants on the same two days (except for my alocasias in self-watering pots… that’s a post for another day).

    • Your plant’s needs depend on species, pot size, substrate, light, temperature of the room, humidity, and time of year.

    • Check the soil every week and learn your plant’s preferences. Many common houseplants prefer the top 1 or 2 inches to dry out between waterings, while others prefer more consistently moist conditions.

    • Water your plants thoroughly until excess water drains from the bottom of the pot (VERY important your plants are in pots WITH DRAINAGE).

    Signs of underwatering:

    • Dry, shrinking, or pulling-away soil (some call this “The Gap of Death”

    • Limp or wilted leaves

    • Crispy brown leaf edges

    • A pot that feels a little too light

    Signs of overwatering:

    • Soil staying wet too long

    • Yellowing leaves

    • Root or stem rot

    • Stinky (literally, you can smell a dying plant…)

    Humidity:

    • Many tropical houseplants naturally grow in warm, humid environments, so they may appreciate additional humidity in our homes, especially during dry winters or when indoor heating is running.

    • A comfortable humidity range for many tropical houseplants is around 40–60%, although individual species have different preferences and some appreciate higher humidity.

    • You can increase humidity with a humidifier, grouping plants together, or placing plants in naturally humid areas. Just remember that good airflow matters, too!

    Humidifiers and misting:

    • Misting can temporarily increase moisture around a plant, but it generally doesn't maintain consistent humidity for very long.

    • A humidifier is usually a more reliable option if your plant needs additional moisture in the air.

    • Humidity trays may add some moisture immediately around a plant, but they are not a substitute for a humidifier in a dry room. If using a pebble tray, keep the plant pot above the water rather than sitting directly in it.

    Focus on your plant's actual needs, and don't feel like you need to create a tropical rainforest in your living room (although that would rock).

  • Why fertilize?

    • Plants use nutrients to support healthy growth, root development, and the production of new leaves. While potting soil provides some nutrients, those nutrients can become depleted over time, especially when a plant is actively growing.

    • Fertilizer supplements the nutrients available to your plant. It isn't a substitute for appropriate light, watering, or healthy roots, though! A well-balanced care routine comes first.

    Fertilizing schedules:

    • Many houseplants benefit from fertilizing during their active growing season, often spring and summer. Growth may slow during fall and winter, depending on the plant and your indoor conditions.

    • A general starting point for many actively growing tropical houseplants is a balanced, diluted fertilizer used according to the product's instructions. Generally, you want to find a gentle liquid fertilizer (like a 5-5-5) to mix into your water.

    • I would caution people away from diving into a rigorous fertilizing schedule if you just purchased a brand new plant. Let it acclimate to its new space and then you should assess its needs.

    What kind of fertilizer should I use?

    • A general, gentle, water-soluble houseplant fertilizer can be super practical for most common plants.

    • Look for something with clear directions and follow the recommended dilution. Some plants may benefit from a specialized approach, but you really don’t need to go out and buy a dozen fertilizers to get started.

General Plant Care

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General Plant Care *

  • When to repot:

    • Roots growing out of the drainage holes

    • Roots circling densely around the root ball

    • Soil drying out too quickly

    • A plant becoming unstable or top-heavy

    • Caveat: Not every plant needs to be repotted immediately. Some plants prefer being a little tight in their pots, and repotting too frequently can stress it out.

    • Another caveat: When you receive your plant from The Lilly Pad (or anywhere else you purchase plants), I suggest letting it acclimate to your space before you repot. Again, you don’t want to stress your new plant baby out!

    • If you are in the Northern Colorado area and need some hands-on help repotting, please reach out and we can set up a time for me to come to you!

    Pot size:

    • A good rule of thumb is to upsize your pot no more than 2 inches at a time.

    • A pot that is dramatically larger may hold onto moisture a little too long, which can increase the risk of root rot.

    Drainage holes:

    • Your pot (nursery or otherwise) needs drainage holes, no exceptions.

    • I like to pot my plants into nursery pots and place them into decorative pots. That way, I can enjoy my cutie plant in a cutie pot and not have to stare at the plastic nursery pot.

    • Clear nursery pots also allow for you to monitor your plant in ways a decorative pot won’t allow (root health, repotting is easier, etc)

    Soil:

    • The best soil mix depends on your plant. Many tropical houseplants benefit from a well-draining, airy mix that retains some moisture without staying waterlogged.

    • Aroids, for example, are often grown in mixes that include materials such as potting soil or coco coir, perlite, and chunky components like orchid bark. The exact mix should be adjusted for the species, environment, and watering habits.

    • Succulents, cacti, and plants with specialized needs may require different soil mixes.

  • Propagation is the process of creating new plants from an existing plant. Depending on the species, you may be able to propagate through stem cuttings, leaf cuttings, division, offsets, or other methods.

    One of my favorite things about plants is that a single healthy mother plant can sometimes help create new little plant babies. It’s like… girl math for plants.

    Water propagation:

    • For many stem-cutting plants, you can take a cutting with a healthy node, place the node in water, and keep the cutting in a suitable light environment. Change the water regularly and watch for root development.

    • Not every plant propagates well in water, and some plants transition to soil more successfully than others.

    What is a node?

    • A node is a point on a plant stem where leaves, roots, or new growth can emerge. For many popular vining houseplants, a stem cutting needs at least one viable node to produce new growth.

    Timeline:

    • Propagation is a process, not a race! Some cuttings develop roots within a couple of weeks, while others may take considerably longer depending on the plant, season, temperature, light, and propagation method.

    • Look for healthy, gradual progress rather than expecting every cutting to root on the same timeline.

    • Some cuttings may fail, and that's part of learning. Keep experimenting, observing, and celebrating the little wins!

  • Picking the right plant:

    • Start with your space and your lifestyle! Consider the amount of light you have, how often you're home, your experience level, and whether you have super curious pets.

    • If you're a beginner, look for a plant whose care needs fit naturally into your routine. If you're a collector or more experienced, you may be looking for something a little more specific.

    • Don’t be scared of the cool-looking plant. They aren’t as scary as they may seem, and I can almost guarantee you will be better at plant parenthood than you’re giving yourself credit for.

    • Not sure where to start? That's what your neighborhood plant friend is here for (it’s me, I’m the friend).

    Pet safety:

    • Plant safety varies by species, and not every plant is safe for cats or dogs. Some houseplants can cause irritation or more serious symptoms if chewed or ingested.

    • Many people have plants and pets (myself included) and can be very successful. I suggest looking up the specific plant you’re interested in and determining whether or not you want to adopt this plant into your life based on how your pets behave around plants.

    • Keep plants out of reach when needed.

    Will my plant look exactly like the photo?

    • Each plant listing is the exact plant you will be receiving.

    • I will be packing each order with the utmost care and attention!

    • I use materials such as polyfill, cardboard, paper, stretch wrap, and tape to secure each plant during transit.